Hakama (袴) are wide, pleated Japanese trousers tied at the waist, traditionally worn over a kimono. Once the everyday dress of samurai, they are still worn today in martial arts such as kendo, aikido, iaido and kyudo, at weddings and at university graduations.
A short history
Hakama have been worn in Japan for well over a thousand years. During the Edo period they were part of formal samurai dress, and the wide legs made it easier to move, ride and fight. Tradition in many dojos holds that the seven pleats (five at the front and two at the back) represent the seven virtues of bushido.
Types of hakama
- Umanori hakama: “horse-riding” hakama with divided legs, like very wide trousers. This is the type used in most martial arts.
- Andon hakama: undivided, like a pleated skirt, and common in women's formal wear and graduation outfits.
Modern hakama pants
Streetwear hakama pants keep the defining silhouette (high waist, deep pleats, very wide legs) but swap the ties for an elastic waist and use everyday fabrics like cotton, linen and midweight polyester. Variations include cropped hakama, double-layer samurai culottes and hakama-style skirt pants.
How to wear hakama pants
- Balance the volume: wear a fitted tee, tucked shirt or short jacket on top. A sukajan or haori works perfectly.
- Mind the length: full-length hakama look best with flat shoes; cropped styles show off sneakers or tabi socks.
- Keep colours simple: black, navy and natural linen are the easiest to style.
Sizing
Most hakama pants run in Asian sizing, but elastic waists make the fit forgiving. If you are between sizes, size up. Our size guide explains how to measure.
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